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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly astonished,” states a owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has retained much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic triumph.